The tapas scene here in Seville is an incredible maze of openings, closings, restaurant takeovers, fails and successes, to the point that I sometimes struggle to get my head around. It feels like almost on a weekly basis that somewhere is opening, somewhere is closing, overnight a restaurant has changed name and concept and without anyone noticing, the entire staff or even ownership has changed. Okay, not quite. But you get the picture.
Recently I ate at La Pepona, a tapas bar in Seville that does gourmet and modern style tapas and raciones. It’s not one of my “go to” places to eat in Seville, but I did like going there every now and then thanks to its never ending wine list that saw most wines being available by the media copa – that’s right, half glass, which made it perfect to try lots of different wines, topped off by the knowledgeable wait staff who would organise a wine pairing for you with every tapa that you ordered. Yes, the wines were a novelty, but also their modern take on gambas al ajillo (prawns cooked in chilli, garlic and sizzling hot olive oil) was particularly amazing.
The now lacklustre prawns at La Pepona
Last time I went I wasn’t so impressed. The wine list had shrunk excessively, and while there were still plenty to choose from it was never the less disappointing as this was my favourite feature of this restaurant. Then two of the wines I asked for were not available– no worries, it happens– but the problem was that the waiter wasn’t even able to suggest me an alternative.
The entire wait staff had changed, I didn’t recognise a single face in the restaurant, and the staff seemed young and inexperienced, unable to give much advice in terms of what was on offer. But aside from that, the most disappointing thing was what was previously my favourite dish– the prawns. For 8 euros I got a plate of prawns (10 of them, if I recall correctly, which means the weighed in at just under 1 euro per prawn) and let’s just say they were flavourless and disappointing and I would have been much better off eating a whole dish of them at a “bar de toda la vida” where the presentation may have suffered, but my wallet? No.
In the end, I paid the same amount of money for my meal at La Pepona as I would have had I eaten at ConTenedor (more on that place below), which I consider being my favourite “a little more expensive but worth every cent” spot.
Yep, it’s fair to say that Seville’s tapas scene is ever changing, and not always for the best. But I decided it’s time to think long and hard about Seville’s hyped restaurants at the moment and which ones are actually worth the money (and time!). Ones that I didn’t speak about last time I wrote about the tapas bars and restaurants in Seville that were hyped on TripAdvisor and actually amazing, but are just as worthy of the recognition.
Delicious vegetarian lasagna from Mechela Restaurante, a wonderful gourmet tapas restaurant in Seville that made the cut in my last post on the subject
La Chalá
It’s been a long time since I have been left with the mouth wide open after eating at a tapas bar in Seville (not that there aren’t amount of jaw-dropping experiences, it’s just that there are so many great places to eat in Seville that we are kind of spoilt and used to eating well) but La Chalá was exactly that.
This place had been on my “to eat” list for ages, and I to this day I can’t work out why it took me so long to get there, but since that first visit I’ve been back for more…several times.
The food is fusion, drawing influences from North Africa, Asia and Latin America, but while this style of fusion is not at all uncommon these days in Seville, at La Chalá they do it so well and in their own unique way. This is definitely not the standard “gastrobar menu” of mushroom risotto and tuna tartar!
Both of the arepas (South American cornbreads fried and stuffed with filling) are delicious, the bacalao (salt cold) mixed with orange is to die for, and the ever-changing list of daily specials are inventive, well-executed and excellent value.
Plaza de la Puerta Real, 6, 41002
To die for– bacalao (salt cod) and orange
La Brunilda
There is consistently a queue to eat at La Brunilda, and with good reason– it’s consistently good. In fact, good doesn’t do it justice. It’s consistently excellent.
The thing I love at La Brunilda is that the dishes all come in tapas size, and despite their success that they have kept things real and haven’t raised the prices or lowered the quality (something that many of Seville’s gastrobars fall victim too).
My personal favourites include the interesting combination of scallops with cauliflower puree and butifarra (white sausage), the comforting chicken with polenta and mushrooms, the failsafe combination of burrata with rocket, cherry tomatoes and pesto, and the delicious bite-sized beef burger.
Calle Galera, 5, 41002
Buratta is always a winner, and at La Brunilda it’s exceptionally good!
ConTenedor
First things first, ConTenedor doesn’t have tapas but what they do have is large plates designed for sharing, so to try several dishes you will also need to find yourself some eating buddies. If you don’t have dining buddies, one dish is enough for an entire meal, so choose wisely!
ConTenedor is a “slow food restaurant” which focuses on local and organic produce which means, as a result, the menu is ever-changing– you never know quite what you will find! However, one thing is certain though; their famous duck rice will be on the menu, and this is not to be missed.
Imagine this: crispy skin duck confit cooked in a perfectly balanced mushroom sauce which has been seasoned with pepper, cumin and bay leaves and finished off with a sweet/sour raspberry and soy combination. ConTenedor is no great kept secret so booking in advance is definitely recommended or you will probably end up disappointed.
Calle San Luis, 50, 41003
ConTenedor’s star dish, the arroz con pato (duck rice)
Arte y Sabor
On first thought, I don’t always think of Arte y Sabor as one of my favourite places to eat in Seville but I really should. Truth be told, I eat here more than at any of the aforementioned places. For me it’s the perfect storm.
Firstly, for the quality and size of the tapas, it’s dirt cheap. To give you an idea; last night I ate there and had two tapas– which is enough to fill you– and a glass of wine, and spent 9 euros. Secondly, it’s five minutes walk from my house, and only three minutes walk if I am really hungry and walk in a hurry! Lastly, the food is refreshingly different in a way that it doesn’t make me feel guilty about eating there instead of eating at home.
You will notice in Spain in general that salads and vegetables aren’t a feature in the tapas (we reserve the delicious market produce to eat by the bucketful at home) but at Arte y Sabor there are a whole lot of different and inventive salads on the menu, with my go to ones being the lentil salad, otherwise blue cheese and mushrooms. Aside from the salads, many of the tapas come with some vegetables on the side. Last night I had
Aside from the salads, many of the tapas come with some vegetables on the side. Last night I had solomillo (pork loin) rolls filled with apple, served with sauteed vegetables (carrot, zucchini and red pepper), and receiving a side of vegetables like this alongside a slab of protein is practically a miracle in our pork-loving city. Sit inside for a relaxing dining experience, or soak up the bustling vibe of the Alameda on the outdoor terrace.
Alameda de Hércules, 85, 41002
One of the many delicious tapas to be found at Sal Gorda, this one is tuna!
Sal Gorda
I will start this off with a disclaimer– last time I ate at Sal Gorda, I didn’t love it. But my dining companion did, and this particular night I only ordered one tapa, so I will be a bit forgiving and conclude that perhaps it was an off night or, god forbid, I ordered one of the few misses that sometimes appears on the menu. But regardless, this little place tucked away around the corner from Plaza de Alfalfa is a solid option and I would recommend it, especially if you happen to be in the area.
Sal Gorda is tiny inside (apparently there is an upstairs, though I’ve never seen it) with some tables spilling out in the adjacent alley. The atmosphere inside is, at times, a little bland (no music and just not much “vibe”) but the food is great.
I love their take on traditional favourites such as the carrillada (which instead of the typical serving on top of potatoes is served with creamed potatoes that have been finished off with a hint of truffle). The tenderness of the pork cheek with the touch of truffle make for a winning combination. Otherwise, I’ll opt for the fried baby squids with bacon and aioli sauce (sounds strange, but just do it!)
Calle Alcaicería de la Loza, 17, 41004
While there are so many great places to eat in Seville, these are just some places I have enjoyed eating in recent times. But what about you? If you have any suggestions, feel free to let me know– I’m always on the look out for new places to try!
If you liked this, please share it on Pinterest!
Cat Gaa says
I’ve been eating my way around Seville for close to a decade, and it’s always a shame to see places that wowed me start to show cracks. I love the staff and wine list at La Chalá, and ConTenedor is the one place my husband was actually speechless at, after we shared an anniversary meal. I’ll have to give Arte y Sabor another try – was not so impressed the last time!
Cyra says
It is such a shame! Do give it another go, I actually didn’t enjoy it that much the first time I ate there but it is the kind of place where your choice can affect your experience a lot– there are a lot of good things but there are also some misses. And if you do plan on coming over this way and eating there one day, do let me know! 🙂